by Stephanie Kinnear, Sunset web producer
My sunglasses are only average size, and I don't own a dog.
But I was so comfortable in my lounge chair, enjoying a sno cone—a passionfruit mango sno cone cocktail to be exact—that my insecurity vanished almost immediately. I was too happy to care. And that's the point: Everyone at this place is too happy to care.
The Ace Hotel & Swim Club (formerly a Howard Johnson) makes the marriage of midcentury modern and Western desert bohemian look easy. Vintage record players (with a selection of vinyl) grace the guestrooms and blend effortlessly with the completely remodeled and updated amenities the hotel offers. The coffee at the hotel restaurant, King's Highway (formerly a Denny’s), is from Portland's Stumptown Roasters and it comes in a large French press. You can document your trip in the throwback photo booth in the lobby—it accepts credit cards.
But back to that pool. It was just cool enough to provide some relief from the desert sun and just warm enough that there was no shock-and-shiver factor when I unceremoniously hopped into the deep end (8 ft!). Bonus: you don't even have to stay at the Ace to enjoy the pool (and poolside bar)—for $15 anyone can grab a towel and claim a lounge chair for themselves.
The rooms, which I only got a chance to peek into, exude an easy, relaxed cool. The Howard Johnson was a drive-up hotel, but when the minds behind the Ace started renovating, they eliminated those parking spots and used the space to give select ground-floor rooms their own private patio, complete with an outdoor fireplace (designed by sculpture artist Stan Bitters) and sectional. You can get one of these rooms, right now, for $135.20 a night. HURRY.
Add to all that a spa, a tiny dog park, beach cruisers on loan, live poolside music on Sunday afternoons, the best and most affordable breakfast in Palm Springs (order the ricotta pancakes and chilaquiles), and a bar called the Amigo Room (it's rumored the Rat Pack used to drink there), and I'm convinced I could live at the Ace. I'd have everything I need. And that includes sno cone cocktails.

