Dream Towns

April 24, 2008

The best things to do in Paia, Maui's coolest little town

WindsurfBy Amy Wolf, Sunset travel editor

Here’s a dirty little confession: Until recently, I was anti-Maui. I’d never been there but I didn’t really want to. The place gets so much love and so much press that it sapped my curiosity.

But Paia, the little plantation town en route to Hana, made me change my mind. Paia is heaven on earth. It’s small, quirky, and bohemian. I’d move there in a heartbeat if anyone would give me a job there. (Anyone?)

So, now that vacation season is upon us, I suggest you go to Paia. Once there, here are the cool things to do:

1. Watch windsurfers strut their stuff—or to strut your own, at Ho’okipa Beach. This is what people come here for.

Sprecs 2. Swim at Baby Beach, which is technically called Paia Bay, in the neighboring town of Spreckelsville. (You can easily walk here from Paia, even barefoot in the sand if you wish.)

A reef close to shore creates a calm, sandy-bottomed pool that’s great for baby and you.

Desamis

3. Eat breakfast at Cafe des Amis, a warm, artsy little place with a chalkboard menu of Mediterranean and Indian crepes and wraps,  both sweet and savory. My spinach and feta wrap was delish. So was my baby’s chocolate banana crepe (which I ate most of). My baby drank all of my mango smoothie. I didn’t share my latte, because it was to good.

Mana_fruit

4. Get groceries at Mana Foods. This place had me in a frenzy. I wanted to move to Paia just to shop here. The produce was so prime it was like art. The prepared food was so wholesome and fresh that I bought several pounds of it. And the wall of gourmet chocolate bars—well, you can imagine. Any store with a wall of chocolate deserves a visit.

Flatbreadkidmar02

5. Meet and eat at Flatbread Pizza Company. This is where Paia’s nightlife happens (it’s one of the few places to stay open late), and it also happens to have the best pizza on the island: wood-fired, with all organic ingredients like homemade maple-fennel sausage and organic produce.

Tomorrow: Come back for the one thing you should NOT do in Paia.

February 08, 2008

Dream Town: Bend, Oregon

Tower_theatre_2

Facts of Life

POPULATION:  77,780
MEDIAN AGE: 34.8
SUNNY DAYS: More than Houston, Texas; only slightly less than Phoenix, Arizona
SNOWY DAYS: All winter down the road at Mount Bachelor, but rarely in town
AVG TEMPS:  30s in winter; 60s in summer
MAIN DRAG: Brewpub-lined Bond, Brooks, and Wall Streets
BIG HOOPLA: Bend WinterFest (Feb. 8-10) with ice-carvings, live music, and truckloads of snow

Everyday life

DRESS CODE: Fleece

UNOFFICIAL "TOWN HALL": In winter, it’s Virginia Meissner Sno-Park, one of several cross-country ski areas. Come summer, locals linger over frosty pints at Deschutes Brewery.

EVERYBODY OWNS: GEAR. Skis, snowshoes, mountain bikes, fly-rods, you name it.

YOUR FRIENDS WOULD BE: Post-college outdoors fiends, fun young parents, outpriced Californians

ON YOUR GROCERY LIST: Six-pack of Mirror Pond Pale Ale, a rosemary-flecked baguette from Di Lusso Bakery, and a wedge of Tumalo Farms cheese

TYPICAL SATURDAY: A run or hike along the miles of trails that line the rushing Deschutes River, followed by Pacific blue crab eggs benny (this blog reviews restaurants and has a pic of eggs) at the Victorian Cafe, 541/382-6411. Winter: cross-country ski or snowshoe in the afternoon, unless there’s fresh powder down the road at Mt. Bachelor, then hit the slopes. Summer: hike, bike, skinny dip in one of several lakes, or rock climb at nearby Smith Rock State Park.

SIP: Microbrews at Bend Brewing Company; martinis made with locally distilled vodka at Old Mill Martini Bar, 541/389-4900; a bottle of red from Portello Wine Cafe

TASTE: Don’t let the fact that you’re in landlocked Central Oregon deter you from trying Deep, the new sushi bar opened by Jody Denton, of Merenda, a pioneer of Bend’s restaurant boom. Also, try brick-housed Blacksmith (This guy seems to know a lot about Bend beer).

NIGHT LIFE HERE: A moonlight cross-country ski to a warming hut, complete with wine and cheese.

Real Life

STAY FOR A WEEKEND: McMenamins Old St. Francis School (19 rooms from $104; 4 cottages from $174; and a communal Tukish bath and brewpub to boot).

HOT 'HOOD: Northwest Crossing

STAY FOREVER: In this 3BR, 2.5B, 2,629 square foot house, 10-foot ceilings, mountain views from the deck, $599,000. For more info contact Virginia Ross at Coldwell Banker

APPRECIATION: 1998 median price, $208,370; 2008 median, $429,484

RENTAL PRICES: $135/night is the going rate for a fully-furnished 3BR, 2B house on Bend’s West-side.

Life etc. My “I could live here” moment happened less than an hour after my arrival, when I was tooling around town in my rental car—and didn’t get lost. Once. (A true rarity for this direction-less travel editor.) Ah-ha moment number two happened first thing in the morning on a trail run along the Deschutes river, when I realized  if I lived in Bend I could run this woodsy, peaceful path every day.

Sunset article on Bend.

-Rachel Levin, associate travel editor