By Trina Enriquez, Sunset copy editor

The Pacific Northwest Ballet in Seattle is hosting its last $5 Fridays event of the '08–'09 season this Friday, May 22, from 6 to 7 p.m. A dance preview orchestrated by PNB artistic director Peter Boal and put on in one of the Phelps Center's practice studios, the series features excerpts from the current program, except that dancers perform in practice gear and Boal precedes and follows up each excerpt with comments, then a Q&A. Very intimate, pretty informal, and über-cool for anyone who’s interested in the ballet but maybe a little intimidated by their lack of experience with or technical knowledge of it.

Artistic director Peter Boal and young audience members watch
PNB principal dancers Louise Nadeau and Jeffrey Stanton
at the PNB's $5 Friday Swan Lake studio rehearsal.
© Angela Sterling; photo courtesy of the Pacific Northwest Ballet.

This particular Friday's event is Director's Choice, featuring parts of Dances at a Gathering (with music by Chopin and choreography by Jerome Robbins) and After the Rain (a pas de deux choreographed by Christopher Wheeldon and set to Arvo Pärt's music). It’s a fun way to gain some insight on what goes into creating the slick, tricked-out performances onstage.

Order tix online or by phone (206/441-2424) to secure a spot in the general seating; otherwise you may nab tickets at the box office (301 Mercer St., Seattle). If you miss this $5 Friday, tune in later to the PNB's $5 Friday info page for more on the '09–'10 season.

Make a night (or a weekend) of it

Head for La Dolce Vita, about a mile away from the Phelps Center, after the show ends at 7 p.m. The cozy restaurant opens at 5 p.m., which would make it a tight squeeze for a pre-show bite, but it takes reservations until 10:30. One glance at the dinner menu will have your mouth watering: salsiccia e vongole (housemade sausage and fresh Manila clams in a tomato–white wine sauce) and tagliatelle alla Dolce Vita (fresh pasta with English peas, locally foraged spring mushrooms, pine nuts, and blue cheese), for starters. 

Photo courtesy of La Dolce Vita Ristorante Italiano.

For sleeps, look no further than the Alexis Hotel, featured in Sunset's March '09 issue. Sure, it's a little pricier than what you just spent at the ballet—but it is, as we billed it, "a downtown getaway that lets you curl up with a good book and get out exploring the city." Retrace the story and savor a weekend of culture and learning and eats and words.

Order the mushroom frittata or hot Dungeness crab on brioche
for brunch at the Alexis Hotel's Library Bistro & Bookstore Bar, and have books
within arm's reach while you wait. Photo by John Clark.

Whale watching on Whidbey Island

That’s right, the Eastern Pacific gray whale is en route from Baja to the
Arctic by way of Puget Sound—and the cozy-luxe Inn at Langley is giving them
(and you) a rather warm welcome.

Photo by Lara Ferroni

Starting this weekend, $265 buys front-row suites to the Saratoga Passage, a popular whale feeding ground, plus breakfast and a three-hour (a three-hour tour...) for two aboard the 100’ Mystic Sea (valued at $120), where whale sightings are almost guaranteed. If you don’t see any of these massive sea creatures, though, hearing their faint calls off the balcony as you sink into bed is second best.

By Amy Wolf, Sunset travel editor

Eleven day 'til Valentine's Day. Are you ready? I'm not. But there's hope for all of us, especially now that the February issue of Sunset is out, featuring 20 romantic escapes (for under $250!) all around the West.

We interviewed sociologist and sexologist Dr. Pepper Schwartz, of the University of Washington, on how to make the big night special. Check it out.

In the meantime, I just came across a screaming deal offered by  Larkspur Hotels: Book a reservation for any night in February, including Valentine's Day, before February 14, and if you use this promo code—TR9899LOVE—you'll get a whopping 40% off, plus a bottle of chilled champagne—the perfect thing for a toast to love in a time of recession. Though all the hotels listed on their site sound promising, here are a few I can personally vouch for.

The following hotels are eligible for the deal:

In the Bay Area:

Larkspur Landing Pleasanton
The Lodge at Tiburon (pictured at left)

In Los Angeles:
The Belamar Hotel

In and around Sacramento:
Larkspur Landing Folsom
Larkspur Landing Roseville
Larkspur Landing Sacramento

In San Francisco:
Hotel Abri
Larkspur Hotel Union Square
Larkspur Landing South San Francisco
Villa Florence (pictured at left)

In the Silicon Valley/Monterey area:
Casa Munras (Monterey)
Larkspur Landing Campbell
Larkspur Landing Milpitas
Larkspur Landing Sunnyvale
PruneYard Plaza Hotel
Toll House Hotel
The Sainte Claire

In Portland:

Larkspur Landing Hillsboro
RiverPlace Hotel

In Seattle:

Larkspur Landing Bellevue
Larkspur Landing Renton

by Anna Nordberg, Sunset special projects editor

Happy hour deals are back, and we're not talking about two-for-one Coors in plastic cups (although those sound pretty good now too).

In our January issue, Sunset contributor Amanda Gersh writes about the $25 oyster and champagne flights at the Alberta Street
 Oyster Bar & Grill
 in Portland. You get three glasses of bubbly and half-a-dozen Pacific and
 Atlantic oysters, accompanied by yummy mignonettes
 like orange-fennel and champagne-shallot.

Now that's a reason to celebrate.

And on a recent trip to Seattle, our wine editor Sara Schneider stumbled across 75 cent (75 cent!) oysters during happy hour at Ama Ama Oyster Bar & Grill (opened by a chef who used to be at Flying Fish.) That's some well-priced local bounty, and they go great with a glass of Muscadet. Just make sure to get there between 4:00 and 6:00.

Enjoy!

PHOTO: Courtesy of Lussorian Luxury Homes and Accessories

Earlier: Washington's Olympic Peninsula draws fans of "Twilight" vampire series

Update: Get yourself to Oregon for a taste of Twilight

by Elizabeth Jardina, Sunset researcher

Those Twilight fans — man, they're serious about their books.

Thanks to Twilighters visiting this site to read our story about visiting Forks, Washington, this blog has had a couple of record-breaking days, as well as some delightful comments.

A special shout-out to Faith R., whose parents have decided to take her on a trip to Washington as a result of our Forks story.

If you too are serious about visiting northwest Washington, I highly recommend reading travel editor Amy Wolf's article about the Olympic Peninsula from this past June. If anyone else needs persuasion — reluctant husbands, skeptical parents — send 'em there. They won't be able to resist.

Let's also take a moment to say hello to Lisa Hansen, the owner of TwilightMOMS.com (and a lifelong Sunset fan!) whose posting of our link helped us get many new readers. And provided us this comment:

This place is truly has the most majestic scenery I've ever seen in my life. It's one of those places I want to visit over and over again for years to come and the residents are absolutely wonderful!!!

Lisa is also a key source for our forthcoming post about where the movie version of Twilight — out Nov. 21 (that's Friday, people) — was filmed. Look for it at the end of this week.

About Port Angeles and taking the ferry

A few commenters have asked why we recommend a land route from Seattle to Forks rather than taking one of Washington State's ferries. Simply: Because we wanted to minimize confusion. For visitors who are not accustomed to using ferries as transit, it seemed easier to stay on land than figure out the ferry system.

You can, of course, take the ferry from the Seattle main terminal (at Pier 52) to Bainbridge Island — with your rental car too — and then head up State 305 to State 3 to State 104, or you can take the ferry from the dock in Edmonds to Kingston, Washington and take State 104 to State 101 and continue west to Forks. Adult fare is $6.70 each way; the car is an extra $11.55.

This northern route to Forks has the advantage of sending you through Port Angeles, home of the restaurant Bella Italia, where Edward and Bella have their first date. (Of sorts. If that's what you call it when your vampire not-quite-boyfriend rescues you from a bunch of bad guys, then sits you down to watch you eat mushroom ravioli.)

Twilight, the phenomenon

We aren't the only publication who's been writing about visiting Forks lately. The Los Angeles Times has a great story from Saturday's paper about Forks, and the Seattle Times wrote about Forks last week as an inexpensive vacation destination from Seattle.

I was also going to mention that some of the stars of Twilight will be at the West Hollywood Hot Topic store tomorrow, Nov. 18, but the event is already way, way sold out. (And the West Hollywood event doesn't even include Twilight star Robert Pattinson, whose appearances have created teen fervor all over the country in the past couple of weeks, notably in San Francisco, where a girl's nose was reportedly broken in a melee at Stonestown Galleria.)

Again, stay tuned for our next installment of of Twilight travel — movie edition.

Update: Get yourself to Oregon for a taste of Twilight

by Elizabeth Jardina, Sunset researcher

So you want to go to Forks, Washington.

A certain segment of the population knows exactly what I'm talking about. Teenage girls (and a good number of 20- and 30-something women) are overrepresented here.

Forks: a modest logging town on Washington's Olympic Peninsula whose impressive rainfall totals make it among the wettest spots in the U.S. All this — plus, the weather is gloomy even when it's not raining, and it sits on a stretch of two-lane highway marred by clear-cut forests.

Seriously, every teenage girl you know wants to go there.

Who is responsible for this entry in the catalog of improbable vacation destinations?

Thank Stephenie Meyer, a mother of three from Phoenix who, Googling around for the rainiest spot in the U.S., picked Forks sight unseen as the setting for her frothy teen vampire romance Twilight. The novel has sold eleventy billion copies, and spawned three sequels; a cadre of intense fans, many female and young; a movie version, out Nov. 21; and a burst of tourism in Forks.

Forks, which one Sunset editor described thusly: "People stop there for gas and keep moving."

Fans of the Twilight books are going anyway. Tourism-related tax revenue in the town is up nearly 50 percent this year, and the town is hopeful that more vampire-seeking tourists will make the stop to see quotidian landmarks like Forks High School, the hospital, the grocery store, and the police station.

But a trip to the Olympic Peninsula shouldn't just be about vampire-chasing in Forks. Less than a hour away, Olympic National Park is home to some of the most stunning scenery in the West: Temperate, moss-gilded forests. Cool, misty lakes. Windswept beaches. (Yes, First Beach on the Quileute Reservation, which is the site of one of Twilight's most pivotal scenes, is a real place. As are Second and Third Beaches.)

The coast near Forks/Mike Gurling, Forks Visitor Center

Getting there: The basics

When to go: For the best weather (warmest temperatures and least rain), go May through late September or early October. Of course, if you're looking for a rain-soaked, freezing-cold, vampire-inspired adventure, any time is a pretty good one. The town of Forks celebrates Stephenie Meyer Day on the same day as Twilight protagonist Bella Swan's birthday, Sept. 13. Expect special Twilight-themed events; last year, they included a bonfire on First Beach and a Wolf Dance by members of the Quileute Nation. (In attendance, notably, were 150 fans from the erstwhile fan site TwilightMoms.com.)

How to get there: Fly into Seattle. (From San Francisco or Los Angeles, check Virgin America for low rates.) Although you can cross Puget Sound on a ferry, Sunset editors recommend renting a car in the city and driving south, through Tacoma and Olympia, and then heading north on U.S./State 101 toward Forks.

Where to stay: While there are a number of accommodation options in the town, travel editor Amy Wolf recommends staying at the Lake Quinault Lodge, about an hour south of Forks, for its stunning lakeside setting and easy access to the forest.

Local info for Forks

The Forks Chamber of Commerce website has lists of local lodging and businesses, as well as a Twilight-themed page that shows the real locations of many of the scenes in the novels. A local favorite is Forks Community Hospital, which has a space reserved for Dr. Cullen (the vampire dad and physician from the novels). The chamber also runs the monthly Forks Tours ($22) that sell out almost as quickly as they're scheduled. Check out their online store, where you can buy your very own Forks High Spartans jersey ($20) or your vampire-themed bumper sticker ($5).

If you go to Forks, be sure to stop at the Forks Visitor Center, where manager Mike Gurling — a former Olympic National Park ranger  — will give you a specially made Twilight map, which includes some non-public stops like the "Swan House" (actually a private residence) and the "Cullen House" (actually a bed and breakfast), as well as a trivia quiz to test your knowledge of the four books. (He also took the amazing photos on this blog.)

Forks Forum, the local newspaper, published on Wednesdays with a circulation of 5,000, has an active website. (Recent headline: First Twilight-focused shop opens in Forks). It also has a page specifically for Twilight fans.

Not to miss: The towering rain forest

The Hall of Mosses in the Hoh Rain Forest/Mike Gurling, Forks Visitor Center

The Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park is 34 miles south of Forks, about a 45 minute drive. But its otherworldliness makes it a must-visit experience. Gigantic, centuries-old Sitka spruces are covered in moss, lichen, and other epiphytes — plants that eschew the soil and root above the ground on other plants. Although it is a true rain forest, it's no steamy jungle. The temperature, even in summer, rarely hits 80 degrees; it rains 12 to 14 feet per year here.

For Twilight fans, a hike in one of these rain forests — you can also visit the Quinault, Queets, or Bogachiel Valleys — is the perfect place to imagine your super-fast vampire beau streaking through the forest, carrying you around. Or, the perfect place to envision werewolves, if that's more your speed. (You're more likely to see, if you're lucky, a Roosevelt elk, the species of majestic quadruped on whose behalf Teddy Roosevelt first protected this land in 1909; it became a national park in 1938.)

Admission to Olympic National Park is $15 per car, and the pass lasts seven days.

Not to miss: The wild beaches

Driftwood at Second Beach/Mike Gurling, Forks Visitor Center

Twilight fans head straight to La Push, the very small town on the Quileute Reservation where adorable werewolf Jacob Black hails from. First Beach, where Bella learns about the supernatural secrets that lurk on the reservation and in Forks, is a popular spot for tourists. For a truly wild beach experience, also check out Olympic National Park's Rialto Beach, where you can walk 1.5 miles to Hole-in-the-Wall, a natural sea arch.

A special request for Twilight fans: Have you visited the area? Please leave comments and let us know what you did that was fun (or not). Did it live up to your vision of it in the novels?

Special thanks to Mike Gurling at the Forks Chamber of Commerce for allowing us to use these gorgeous photos!

Update: More on Twilight from Nov. 17

By Rachel Levin, Sunset senior editor

(Photo credit: Christopher Nelson)

...And save $20! 3-day passes to Seattle’s famed arts and music fest (Aug 30-Sept 1) are regularly $100. But starting July 15 through Aug 15 they’re on sale for $80; single-day tickets, $35. Can’t wait till Tuesday? Join the Bumberfan Club (it’s free) and you can buy discounted tix today.

There’s even a weekly Summer Haiku Contest (I mean, who doesn’t love haiku contests?) and if Seattle Poetry Slam legend Karen Finnyfrock  likes your 5-7-5, you could win two passes.

One more tip—which will save you big bucks, not to mention your sanity: Parking. Instead of shelling out $40 for a space in one of those jam-packed lots around the 74-acre Seattle Center, quietly slip into the neighborhood just north of the festival (Queen Anne Hill) and walk in. Better yet, leave your car at home, and take public transportation if you can.

Also, remember: Bumbershoot may be known as one of the best music fests in the country (see here for this year’s killer line-up) but it’s growing increasingly known for its literary and arts stuff too. Bonus: the author readings, visual arts, comedy acts, and kids programs are often far less crowded than, say, Beck’s stage (Sorry, Beck.)

For a list of other summer music festivals around the West, click on "Happenings" (that link up there, to the right) and see Sunset copy chief Erika Ehmsen's well-researched list.