Sunset Traveler

by Lisa Trottier, Sunset travel editor

I’ve been to Zion National Park in the blazing days of summer, and I’ve been when it’s dusted with snow. I’ll take the latter any old day. When the crowds thin and the park eases driving restrictions, it’s so much easier to enjoy its surreal beauty.

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I visited this year in late March—and for the first time stayed at the Zion Lodge, the only overnight option inside the entrance gate. Springdale, the gateway to the park, is a nice town, but eating pancakes every morning with the canyon walls glowing outside the window. Well, it’s the only way to go.

The lodge rooms themselves aren’t much to shout about, but they open onto a broad lawn which itself is one of the park’s most scenic sights. When we weren’t feeling ambitious, my kids and I did our sightseeing right there.

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Tackled by my kids on the Zion Lodge lawn.

And now, the off-season rates have kicked in. This month, until just before Thanksgiving, rooms start at $100/night. Starting Dec. 1, they start at $89/night.

Book it: 888.29.PARKS

Plan your trip with Sunset’s online guide to the park, including the top wow spots and your best plan whether you have one day or three.

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by Lisa Trottier, Sunset senior travel editor

When the superposh Aman Resorts opened their first U.S. hotel in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, 11 years ago, it was clear they knew something about the habits of the American jet-setter. This week, they open their second U.S. project. But this one’s a bit more of a head-scratcher.

 Amangiri

Amangiri, they’re calling it, a collection of 32 suites fit for a CEO who’s taken the golden parachute. And they’ve put it on a 600-acre swath of Utah desert 25 minutes outside Page, Arizona. I don’t know if you’ve ever been to Page, but I have. And it ain’t no Jackson.

No one loves the desert of Southern Utah like Sunset does—it’s tops in our book. But having camped in this country many times, I can’t help but chuckle when I picture the guests of a $600/night hotel (that’s the discounted opening rate, by the way) mingling with the beer-chugging houseboaters on Lake Powell or pulling into a strip mall in Page to hook up with a tour of Antelope Canyon.

There’s no arguing with the views. I mean…wow. But will this arid corner of the world, so remote and desolate that polygamists like to hide out in it, really become a playground for the world’s superrich? If so, the Aman visionaries are smarter than I am. They’re certainly gutsier.

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Curious? Check out more photos on Amangiri’s website.

by Emily Chow, Sunset editorial intern

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The New Children's Museum in San Diego
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to credit: Matthew Jaffe

Looking for something to do Labor Day weekend? If you are a Bank of America cardholder, check out their Museum on Us program, which offers free general admission into more than 100 participating museums nationwide on the first full weekend of every month.

Where will I be this weekend? If it's not too crowded, you'll find me at The Tech Museum of Innovation in San Jose, learning about innovative technology solutions in their permanent exhibit that is opening tomorrow, "Technology Benefiting Humanity."

Flash that piece of plastic at the ticket office for some free fun during the upcoming long weekend. It can't get any better than that.

Check out their Web site to locate participating museums near you.

By Jennie Nunn, Sunset Associate Home Editor

The founding curator of Bellagio’s Gallery of Fine Art shares her top “only in Vegas” moments and why she’s passionate about what she does.
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Expert: Libby Lumpkin, art historian

Field of study: Lumpkin served as the director of the Museum Studies Program at California State University, Long Beach, and is the former director of Las Vegas Art Museum

Favorite “only in Vegas” moments: 1. Wayne Newton at the Stardust—I caught his show there, where he began the evening by kissing every woman in the room, even if he had to crawl over tabletops. It’s too bad the Stardust is gone now. 2. A valet sunning Latoya Jackson’s blond python on his shoulders on the grounds of her high-rise condo building. 3. Charles Schwab on the patio of the Picasso restaurant when the Bellagio fountains (which he had not heard about) began dancing to “Big Spender.” His jaw dropped, and he broke into spontaneous applause. 4. At singer and philanthropist Phyllis McGuire’s Thanksgiving party at Prime Steakhouse ($$$$; 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/693-7223) in the Bellagio, my mother was seated next to Tony Curtis. He drew her a picture on a napkin—it was perhaps the best day of her life.

Best places to eat, near and off the Strip: Piero's Italian Cuisine ($$$; 355 Convention Center Dr.; 702/369-2305) is the upscale old-Vegas hangout. The Rat Packers were regulars there. Vintner Grill ($$; 10100 W. Charleston Blvd., Ste. 150; 702/214-5590) is a new locals’ favorite (mostly young professionals), but it is several miles off the Strip, on the west side. The fried calamari appetizer is the best in town.

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Libby shares with us some unique Vegas finds on and off the strip. Photo courtesy of Jen Siska

More great food: For a local spot that concierges never recommend, there’s Harrie’s Bagelmania ($; 855 E. Twain Ave.; 702/369-3322), also known as Mort’s. The pastrami Reuben may be the best in the country. For Chinese after a late show, there’s Harbor Palace Seafood Restaurant ($; 4275 Spring Mountain Rd.; 702/253-1688). It’s open until 5 a.m., and the shrimp dishes and salmon dim sum are terrific, but the food is even better during the lunch hour.

Secondhand shopping and local galleries: When I arrived here in the early 1990s, I was hoping to discover funky treasures in secondhand stores, but I was disappointed to find that most of the furniture was faux Asian black lacquer. Now, Vegas has some cool design stores, including Unica Home (closed Sun; 3901 W. Russell Rd.; 702/616-9280), and art galleries like Naomi Arin Contemporary Art (closed Sun; 900 S. Las Vegas Blvd.; 702/880-3878), which shows important emerging and international artists.

Her love of art history: The history of art is actually the history of public reactions to artworks. When you study how and when great collections came into being, and the various ways in which artworks have been displayed, you gain a true sense of how malleable the “meanings” of art objects can be. The great works keep on giving; each culture and each generation breathes new life into them.

Pan roasted wild salmon at the Vintner Grill. Photo courtesy of Helga Watkins

Golfexpert LPGA golfer turned yoga instructor Dodie Mazzuca shares her favorite outdoor spots around Phoenix.
Photo by Gabriela Hasbun

Expert: Dodie Mazzuca

Fields of study: Golf and yoga for hikers

Great outdoor yoga spot:
Owl’s Rest in Pinnacle Peak Park (free; 26802 N. 102nd Way, Scottsdale; 480/312-0990) has great views. You can do sun salutations right at daybreak.

Best pose before starting a hike:
A standing forward bend or runner’s lunge is great, because hikers are notoriously tight in their hamstrings. And classes that focus on balance help to prevent injuries by strengthening the joints.

Favorite outdoor spot in Phoenix: McDowell Mountain Regional Park ($6 per vehicle; 16300 McDowell Mountain Park Dr.; 480/471-0173). It has great mountain biking and hiking trails, especially in the northeast valley section.

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Great the sun at Owl's Rest in Pinnacle Peak Park. Photo by Bob Baile

Golf course with a difference: Troon North Golf Club (morning tee times through Jan. 22 from $195, tee times after 1 p.m. $99, discounts for Arizona residents; 10320 E. Dynamite Blvd., Scottsdale; 480/585-5300) really gives you the desert golf experience—it’s all boulder formations and cactus, not tree-lined fairways.

Swpic When he’s not ascending Rainier or Everest (he’s summited 10 times), David Hahn hits the Southwest’s slopes. Photo by Jen Judge

Expert: Ski patroller and mountaineer Dave Hahn

Fields of study: Skiing in the Southwest and climbing peaks all over the world. Take a hike with Hahn through Rainier Mountaineering and International Mountain Guides.

Where’s the hands-down best skiing in the Southwest? Taos, Taos, and Taos (from $40, from $66 high season; 866/968-7386). But there is nothing wrong with southwestern Colorado’s Telluride (from $69, from $92 holiday season; 888/353-5473) either. I like steep and challenging mountains that have character, high altitude, sunshine, and cold snow.

Best après-ski margaritas in Taos? The Martini Tree Bar ($; upstairs from Tenderfoot Katie’s, in the resort center at the mountain base, 116 Sutton Place; 866/968-7386 ext. 1285) and the Hotel St. Bernard ($; 112 Sutton Place, on the slopes at the mountain base; 575/776-2251).

Favorite place to stay in town?
The Hotel St. Bernard (from $1,608 per person for a seven-night stay, including meals and six days of lessons; 575/776-2251).

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Climbers with International Mountain Guides descend past Needle Rock on Mt. Rainier.  Photo by Adam Angel, courtesy of www.mtrainierphoto.com 

What’s the best dinner in Taos? The Guadalajara Grill ($; 1384 Paseo del Pueblo Sur; 575/751-0063), a Mexican cafeteria on the north end. I always get the steak fajitas with corn tortillas at the Old Blinking Light ($$; milepost 1 on Ski Valley Rd.; 575/776-8787). And Sabroso ($$$; 470 State 150; 575/776-3333), just north of Taos in Arroyo Seco, though I don’t treat myself to it too often.

What’s your go-to ski shop? Taos’ Boot Doctors (in the Alpine Suites hotel, 103 Sutton Place; 575/776-2489).

Who’s the best instructor to call for a refresher course? Taos Ski Valley’s adult ski school manager, Jeff Mugleston (private one-hour lesson $170; 866/968-7386 ext. 1355).

by Anna Nordberg, Sunset special projects editor

This is shaping up to be a season of staycations. Dismal headlines, expensive gas, and a general uncertainty about everything mean that people are putting their holiday plans on ice (bad news unless you've had your fill of politics and turkey with the in-laws). So in the spirit of frugal chic—but still squeezing in that weekend getaway—here are some vacation deals that have come across my desk.

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Photo credit: The Camelback Mountain Spa and Resort, courtesy of the Scottsdale Convention & VIsitors Bureau

Scottsdale: The Scottsdale CVB website offers dozens of deals. Look for the special overnights section on the  vacation packages  page for deals at Scottsdale hotels (think Camelback Mountain Spa and Resort, W Scottsdale , PhoenicianBoulders resort and Golden Door Spa, and more.)

Tucson: This deal is a roll of the dice, but you have until November 30 to register to win a free getaway  (travel not included) at Tucson hotels such as the Loews Ventana Canyon Resort , Westin La Paloma Resort and Spa , and Westward Look Resort  (plus six more.)

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Photo credit: The Westin La Paloma Resort

While I imagine the odds of winning are about as slim as the Dow clawing its way past 10,000, I thought I'd put it out there.

Sedona: Several hotels here are offering packages. Enchantment Resort lets you stay the fourth night for free if you book a three night stay by 12/18 (I think this qualifies as the only steal versus deal.)

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Photo credit: Enchantment Resort

The El Portal Sedona gives discounts if you book now over the internet or if you are willing to switch rooms during your stay.

The Sedona Rouge has a couples package which includes a $100 credit at Reds Bistro and free spa treatment for two (not to discriminate against singles, it also offers a $50 credit for dining or spa treatments if you book before 12/31).

Full disclosure: Before you send me grumpy emails about the fine print, please know that I haven't vetted these deals, but they come from sites I trust. When you're booking, read the terms and conditions with a skeptic's eye and be very clear about which package you are calling about.

Happy bargain hunting!

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Sw2_2 Want to know great places to eat in the Southwest?  You’re in luck.  Today we’re serving up restaurant recommendations from our November Southwest expert.  Let us know your favorites!

Expert: Janos Wilder, chef-owner of Janos ($$$$) and J Bar ($$; both closed Sun; 3770 E. Sunrise Dr., Tucson; 520/615-6100)

Field of study: New Southwestern cooking (and, for his restaurants, atypical works by Southwestern artists)

Pioneer of New Southwestern cooking, Janos Wilder lets us in on his hot spots for good grub (right). Photograph by Edward McCain

Kitchen_sw_3 Where to find good versions of chiles rellenos (besides Janos and J Bar): La Roca ($$; 91 Calle Elias, Nogales, Sonora, Mexico; 011-52-631-31-20-760), about an hour from Tucson. It’s very romantic and uses hot chiles stuffed with bacon-wrapped shrimp. In Tucson, Rosa’s Mexican Food ($; 1750 E. Fort Lowell Rd.; 520/325-0362) for the mild cheese/lightly battered rellenos you’d find in the Sonoran region.

Favorite restaurants in and around Boulder: Gold Hill Inn (prix fixe $31; 401 Main St., Gold Hill, CO; 303/443-6461). In Boulder, the Kitchen ($$$; 1039 Pearl St., Boulder; 303/544-5973) and Frasca Food and Wine ($$$$; closed Sun; 1738 Pearl St., Boulder; 303/442-6966); both use fresh, local ingredients and have an ecological and environmental ethos.

Where to find art that doesn’t fit the typical Southwestern idiom: Davis Dominguez Gallery (closed Sun–Mon; 154 E. Sixth St., Tucson; 520/629-9759). Etherton Gallery (closed Sun–Mon; 135 S. Sixth Ave., Tucson; 520/624-7370).

The Kitchen serves simple, straightforward bites (left).  Photograph by Laurie Smith

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Every day this week, we’re giving you a preview of Sunset’s October Weekend guides, featuring regional experts.  Here, a crafty Southwest couple shares ways to celebrate Latin culture.

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Patrick Murillo and Kathy Cano-Murillo don’t need to go far to find inspiration for their artwork. Photograph by David Fenton

Experts: Phoenix artists Kathy Cano-Murillo and Patrick Murillo

Field of study: Chicano art and culture

Their new exhibit: La Casa Murillo: A Life-Size Shadow Box (Oct 3–Jan 11; $10, $3 ages 6–12; 2301 N. Central Ave., Phoenix; 602/252-8848), a manifestation of their fantasy home in the Lovena Ohl Gallery of the Heard Museum.

Where to get an authentic taste of home: Barrio Café ($$; 2814 N. 16th St., Phoenix; 602/636-0240).

Where to dance the night away: Pepin Restaurant ($$$; salsa dancing Fri–Sun, $10; flamenco show Sat–Sun; flamenco lessons Tue, $10; 7363 E. Scottsdale Mall, Scottsdale; 480/990-9026).

Where to find project materials: Sueños Latin American Imports (6035 N. Seventh St., Phoenix; 602/265-3486).

Where to find inspiration and Day of the Dead art: Spanish Market at the Heard Museum (Nov 8–9; free; 2301 N. Central Ave., Phoenix; 602/252-8848). Vision Gallery (Day of the Dead shrine display Oct 20–Nov 1; closed Sun; 80 S. San Marcos Place, Chandler, AZ; 480/917-6859).

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